Saturday 25 September

Istanbul Airport - Munich Airport - Paris CDG Airport - Northern France - Amiens

A long overnight bus trip from Canakkale saw the group arrive at Istanbul Airport at 5am. It was then in to the (becoming more) familiar role of 'airport time wasting'. Group check-ins are also a drawn out affair, so patience was the name of the game on this morning.

Before we knew it, though, we were on the plane and we had arrived in Munich for our transfer to Paris. Here we caught up with a great friend, Iris Sacher, who had been an exchange student at North for the previous 12 months. She was very excited to see her old friends again - on masse in her own backyard.

After arriving in Paris, we met our new bus driver, Simon, from Smiths Bus Company, and we were off on the A1 north to another place name with so much significance to Australians - the Somme.

This afternoon was set aside for some grave commemorations in cemeteries a little off the track. So, after skirting around Amiens, we drove on to Vignacourt British Cemetery, where we had 3 services to conduct.

The cemteries were a vast contrast to those we had become so close to at Gallipoli. Upright headstones, with beautiful gardens and green, green grass. The students were very impressed and quicky gained a real affinity with being in these sacred places.

One thing they had a bit more trouble coming to grips with was the temperature. From steamy Thailand to hot Turkey to COLD France.

After Vignacourt, it was on to Crouy British Cemetery, where Elsa commemorated the second of her 7 relatives (read her diary entry). Then followed an emotional service by Rebecca at Puchervillers British before it was on to Amiens and our home for the next two nights - the Central Anzac Hotel.

After an uncomfortable night on the bus and a lot of air travel, the hotel showers and beds were very well received. It was time to relax and contemplate what now lay ahead .. the tragic story of the Western Front.

Sunday 26 September

Amiens - Australian National Memorial - Somme

Our new adventure on the Somme battlefields began with one of the most popular of all tour events - morning hot chocolate at the Hotel Central Anzac.

It was a cool, crisp and foggy morning and after a stop at Daours Communal Cemetery to honour Pte William Bogg (read 1st diary entry), we arrived at the Australian National Memorial for our group service, where we had 11 men to commemorate.

Before this, Andrew found the grave of his relative in the adjoining cemetery and he delivered a respectful service as fog shrouded the group.

What then followed was rather eerie and spectacular. As he group slowly walked over the rise the form of the Australian National Memorial gradually came into view through the deep fog - a very special way to gain your first look at the most important Australian memorial in France (see photos & quotes).

As on previous tours, the Australian National Memorial group service proved to be the most moving of them all. There is something surreal about being in this spot, and as the fog slowly lifted the students solemnly commemorated their 11 soldiers. Then the sound of our National Anthem cut through the crisp morning air and the group felt an acute sense of national pride. It was also very special to share this service with our No. 1 French friend & guide, Yves Fohlen.

Hayley, Yves & tour mascot, Pudgy

We then bused out to the famous Australian Corps Memorial at Hamel, scene of a famous Australian battle in July, 1918. This was followed by a very emotional commemoration by Claire at Dernacourt British Cemetery.

Enough emotions for one day - back then to Amiens for a free afternoon and a catch up on that washing. The highlight of this afternoon for most was a visit to the unbelievable 13th Century gothic Amiens Cathedral, which never fails to impress those who venture past the huge entrance doors. That night the students were also treated to a spectacular light show at the Cathedral.

Monday 27 September

Villers Bretonneux - Pozieres - Thiepval

It was time now to leave Ameins (and the Hotel Anzac's hot chocolate) and to further explore the Somme Battlefields.

The first stop on this huge day was at Adelaide Cemetery, on the outskirts of Villers Bretonneux. As well as commemorating another of Elsa's relatives, the students also enjoyed seeing the grave of the unknown soldier. Most have visited the tomb at the Australian War Memorial and felt a connection to being at the spot from where he originated.

On then into the town of Villers Bretonneux itself to one of the true highlights of the tour - Victoria Primary School, which was re-built after the war with money donated by Australian school children.

We were warmly welcomed and shown around the school's hall, which is adorned with Australian animal wood carvings. As well, the large sign out in the playground has become a symbol of French appreciation for Australia's contribution to the war effort.

The group photo was followed by an impromptu game of soccer against the school students - we got flogged! The group then visited the excellent Australian museum that is housed on the upper floor of the school.

Then it was out to onto the battlefields east of VB and two particularly moving commemorations. The first was by Stephanie at Cerisy Gailly French Cemetery and the second by Samantha at the beautiful Becort Cemetery, near Pozieres. Here Samantha found her relative, Ned Small, and delivered an emotional and memorable eulogy.

It was a rainy, windy day and the visit to the amazing Lochnagar Crater, near the village of La Boiselle, really gave the students an understanding of the power of some of the great mines that were exploded during the war.

Our time was then spent around the village of Pozieres - at the 1st Division Memorial, Moquet Farm and the very significant Windmill Memorial (see information link).

North of Pozieres is the very imposing Thiepval Memorial (see photo links). It just so happened that a new information centre next to the memorial had been officially opened that day, so we took shelter from the weather there for a while and then spent some time checking out this huge edifice. The students were totally amazed - 73 000 names of missing men. Beyond comprehension.

On from Thiepval is the equally impressive Newfoundland Park and information centre. Here the battlefield remains much as it was in 1916 and it is the place where the Newfoundland Regiment was annihilated on the first day of the Battle of the Somme (see photo gallery).

After some further commemorations, the long day ended at the evening's accommodation - Formula 1 Motel, Asservillers, near the town of Peronne. It was a tired, yet very satisfied group that hit the pillows for a well earned sleep.

 

Tuesday 28 September

Bullecourt / Fromelles / Bailleul

Today was to be one of the busiest commemoration days, with 12 cemeteries visited. It began with possibly the most emotional of all visits - Hayley commemorating her relative George Skinner at Templeux Le Guerard Communal Cemetery (see journal entry).

After further cemtery visits the group made its way to the village of Bullecourt, where we met up with Jean Letaille and looked through his most impressive private museum. We then walked down the road to the famous 'Digger' monument and took a moment to reflect on the two fierce battles that Australians fought in the fields around us in 1917. Claire also took the opportunity to read the poem "In Flanders Fields" to the group.

After this, we were treated to a beautiful lunch in the neighbouring village of Hendecourt, organised by Claude & Collette Durand, who are friends of many Australians. The dinner of cold meat & salad was the standout favourite meal of the whole tour. Just like lunch time tucker at home.

We said goodbye to our Bullecourt friends and also bid a very sad farewell to our great friend & inspiration, Yves. The students were genuinely upset as they had formed a close bond with Yves over the few days he had been with us. He's that kind of bloke (see journal entries).

It was time to head from the Somme north to the Flanders area. On our way to the Belgian border, we stopped off at Fromelles to visit VC Corner Cemetery & the 'Cobbers' sculpture. The significance of this area was not lost on the students - nearly 2000 Australians killed here in one night!!

After further commemorations, one at the beautiful Rue Petillion Military Cemetery where Austin honoured Major Roy Harrison, the group arrived in the town of Bailleul for dinner. It was then out to the local Formula 1 Hotel for our second budget accommodation night.

 

Wednesday 29 September

Messines / Ieper / Menin Gate

Today was an important one as we were travelling into Belgium and establishing ourselves in the famous town of Ieper (known as Ypres during the war).

The morning commerations in the cemeteries south of Ieper were particularly emotional and interesting. Stacey finally found her relative, Private Alfred Dean, at Underhill Farm Cemetery and Lauren conducted a special service for Private George Kable in the beautiful Toronto Avenue Cemetery (see internal link).

We then moved on to the town of Messines for one of the real hightlights of the whole tour. The church in Messines has a long, interesting history and it houses a magnificent set of carillions, which were blessed by Pope John Paul II in 1985. We were provided with a guided tour of the church, including the crypt where Adolf Hitler was treated for wounds, and then up to the carillions and right to the top of the steeple. The views over the old Messines battlefield were spectacula (see photo links).

The students were then treated to a nice surprise. Tour member, Alison, was invited to play some tunes on the carillions. As the group gathered outside, the sounds of 'Waltzing Matilda' followed by 'I Still Call Australia Home' rang out over the town - for the very first time. It was a very special experience.

Then on to Ieper and the Gasthof T'Zweerd Hotel in the central town square. After lunch and check in the group walked down to the imposing Menin Gate Memorial and then had a reflective stroll along the ramparts to the beautiful Ramparts Cemetery (see photo gallery).

It was then time to undertake our last group service at the Menin Gate Memorial. The group set up at the Baastian Plaque near the memorial and we were honoured to have some special Belgian friends join the service - Johan & Hilde Durnez, Ivan (Shrapnel Charlie) & Marie Claire Sinnaeve, and Anny De Decker (wife of the late historian, John Laffin).

After an emotional service where 11 soldiers were honoured (see photo links), the group had dinner with our guests and then we all returned to the Menin Gate to partake in the famous Last Post Service.

We had organised for Anthony & Alison to lay a wreath during the service and we were further honoured when we were asked if we could supply a student to recite the Ode. This honour went to Elsa, whose relative, John Wynd, is commemorated on the memorial. The service was a fantastic experience for the students and to have such an important involvement made it even more memorable (Elsa's recital of the Ode was flawless).

The group's introduction to Belgium had been very positive and all were eager to explore this fascinating area further the next day after a well deserved night's sleep.

 

Thursday 30 September

Hill 60 / Polygon Wood / Tyne Cot / Langemark

This was our last day of battlefield exploring but there were still some very interesting experiences to be had.

The day began with the customary cemetery visits and commemorations before we moved on to the Hill 60 Memorial to Australian tunnellers and preserved battlefield area. Here there are huge craters, shellholes and a fortified pillbox - all encompassed in a fenced off area that is one of the few preserved WW1 battlefields in Belgium.

It was then on to one of the most significant areas for Australians in the Ieper Salient - Polygon Wood. The wood was the scene of ferocious fighting in September, 1917 and today the Australian 5th Division Memorial stands on top of the famous Butte, whilst Buttes New British Cemetery graphically shows the huge human cost of the battles that raged here (see photo links).

We were met at the cemetery by Johan Vanderwalle, who owns De Dreve pub near the wood and who is a keen battlefield archaeologist. Johan took us for a walk through the wood itself and we came across a number of German bunkers.

After lunch and an interesting video about the tunneller's war at De Dreve pub, we moved on to the nearby Tyne Cot Cemetery, the largest Commonwealth war cemetery on the Western Front. The effect on the students was very visible to see. The 12 000 headstones clearly highlight the immense scale of loss during the war and the students were overwhelmed by the experience (see diary entries).

It was then time for another contrasting experience - Langemark German Cemetery, with its 44 000 mass burials. This cemetery also had an effect on the students, however not necessarily positive (see Steph's diary entry).

The mood of the group was lightened by our next stop at the residence of Shrapnel Charlie and his wife, Marie Claire in the village of Sint Jan. This lovely couple welcomed the whole group into their house and Charlie put on a very entertaining and educational display of casting his shrapnel soldiers. His skill, humour and obvious devotion made a great impact on all of the students and this visit was one of the most talked about of all the great experiences (see photo links).

After a long day, it was back to Ieper for some free time before heading back to the Menin Gate for the 8pm Last Post Service. At this service the Dragoon Royal Guards were in attendance and the sound of bagpipes playing under the great arch was something to remember.

It was with a tinge of sadness that the group had its evening meeting. Although tomorrow would see us travel to Paris - an exciting thought - the students were very conscious that this was our last night on the battlefields. These were places that had become such a part of them - saying goodbye would be difficult, as would be seen the next day.

 

Friday 1 October

Wimereux / Etaples / Paris

The time had come - our last day of commemorations. Even thought we had honoured 69 men, the commitment to the final 3 men to be visited this morning was as strong as the very first soldier in Thailand.

The group reluctantly left Ieper (generally agreed to be the most favourite town) and headed west towards the French coast.

The first stop was at Nine Elms British Cemetery, where Samantha commemorated Pte George Dare. It was still relatively early and the rising sun set a beautiful backdrop to this picturesque cemetery on the outskirts of the town of Poperinghe (photo below).

It was then on to the French coast and Wimereux Communal Cemtery where Melina commemorted her relative, Pte Clyde Keefer. This was an emotional time for Melina in what was an unusual cemetery setting. All the headstones are set lying down due to the unstable nature of the soil (see photo links).

One other interesting headstone is that of Lt Col. John McCrae, author of the famous poem, "In Flander's Fields".

We then journeyed south down the road to possibly one of the most beautiful cemeteries of all - Etaples Military Cemetery, where Elsa commemorated the last of her 7 relatives and the last of our 72 soldiers.

After the service the students spent a long time simply wandering around before they came up to the top memorial where they sat overlooking the cemetery. It was at this time that their close connection to the soldiers, the cemeteries & memorials showed. They simply continued to sit ..... and sit, almost as if they didn't want to break the bonds they had forged over the course of the tour.

Eventually, one by one, they said their own reflective goodbyes and boarded the bus ready for the final chapter of their incredible experience - Paris.

 

 

 

Saturday / Sunday / Monday / Tuesday 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 October

Paris / Singapore / Australia

With the emotions of the past 3 weeks behind us, the group was able to now relax and enjoy a bit of R & R - just like the diggers did before them.

Paris is the perfect city to take teenagers. There's always something happening and always something to see.

The three days were spent doing the normal tourist type things - Eiffel Tower (which was a short walk from our hotel), Palace of Versailles, Arch de Triomph, Sacre Couer and, of course, shopping (forget the expense - I bought it in Paris!!).

The final day was spent at Paris Disney and it was interesting to see these great young people - who had shown such maturity and respect - now acting like the kids at heart that they really are.

On Monday night we boarded the plane for the long haul back to Australia. Whilst all were overwhelmed by their experiences, everyone was keen to get home.

After a long stop at Singapore Airport, the group settled into the most enjoyable leg of all - down to Brisbane aboard a Singapore Airlines flight - all with their own TV screens and just too much entertainment at their fingertips.

We finally touched down in Mackay at 10 am on Wednesday morning, to be met by a very happy group of relatives and friends. The adventure was over, yet there was still much to do - the families of the fallen men still had the photos and memories to be passed on to them.

The students held a very emotional presentation evening a few weeks after the tour, with all the relatives and many interested local people in attendance. It was here that the students were able to fully appreciate just what they had achieved - the heartfelt thanks from the families is what made the whole tour worthwhile.

They all realised that they had done something that was essentially good and that they would be better people for their experience.